their noses at the corset

COPYRIGHT 2010 THE COND NAST PUBLICATIONS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

American Experience

Peace, war, and what we wore: Historic archetypes of our national style, ringing down through the years, continually inspire modern designers' dreaming. Here's how six quintessential looks are bold (again) today.

GIBSON GIRL

Heart tag charm Toggle bracelet

BOHEMIAN

SCREEN SIREN

PATRIOT

FLAPPER

Credit: David Sims; Photographed by David Sims.

[Illustration]
Caption: QUIET RIOT Strong, outdoorsy, and in some ways, at least an equal to the boys, Charles Dana Gibson's emblematic late-Victorian heroine played sports, flirted, and sought an education. With her shirtwaist, hard-wearing skirt, and bold pompadour, she was an embryonic prototype of contemporary girl-power icons. Here, Daria Werbowy embodies that poise. Calvin Klein Collection silk top with leather sleeves ($895) and silk trousers ($1,995); Calvin Klein Collection, NYC. Sergio Rossi for PUMA high-heeled sneakers. Details, see In This Issue.; QUIET RIOT Strong, outdoorsy, and in some ways, at least an equal to the boys, Charles Dana Gibson's emblematic late-Victorian heroine played sports, flirted, and sought an education. With her shirtwaist, hard-wearing skirt, and bold pompadour, she was an embryonic prototype of contemporary girl-power icons. Here, Daria Werbowy embodies that poise. Ralph Lauren Collection cashmere sweater, $1,498. RLX Ralph Lauren sweatpants, $98; Both at Ralph Lauren Collection, NYC. Nooka watch. Details, see In This Issue.; DECADE OF THE DEB In 1938, Brenda Frazier's coming out made headlines to rival the occupation of the Sudetenland. The strapless gown was her calling card; her crimson-lipped pale face was instantly recognizable on the cover of Life. Few looks (save for, perhaps, a perfect tuxedo on a clean-shaven man) have had such social longevity. Then as now, the Gibson Girl image was self-possessed, healthy, and in spirit as well as body young. The look's hallmark was a supple hourglass figure. Alexander Wang cotton corset sweatshirt ($595) and briefs ($48); Bergdorf Goodman. Details, see In This Issue.; DECADE OF THE DEB In 1938, Brenda Frazier's coming out made headlines to rival the occupation of the Sudetenland. The strapless gown was her calling card; her crimson-lipped pale face was instantly recognizable on the cover of Life. Few looks (save for, perhaps, a perfect tuxedo on a clean-shaven man) have had such social Elsa Peretti Open Heart bracelet. On Frida Gustavsson (left): Carolina Herrera embroidered tulle dress; Carolina Herrera, Dallas. On Karlie Kloss: Oscar de la Renta tulle dress with lam embroidery; select Neiman Marcus stores. Sandra Cronan jewelry on both. Details, see In This Issue.; ABSTRACT EXPRESSIONISM With bebop in the air and Ezra Pound on everyone's lips, American artists were for the first time at the epicenter of the creative universe. The women of the counterculture patented a new genre of multiethnic, cross-referential fashion collage, as shown here on model Sasha Pivovarova. Marc Jacobs ruffled jacket with belt, cropped pants ($1,225), and sandals; Marc Jacobs, NYC. Details, see In This Issue.; ABSTRACT EXPRESSIONISM With bebop in the air and Ezra Pound on everyone's lips, American artists were for the first time at the epicenter of the creative universe. The women of the counterculture patented a new genre of multiethnic, cross-referential fashion collage, as shown here on model Sasha Pivovarova. Rodarte floral silk chiffon-and-wool dress and embellished hairpins. Dress at Ikram, Chicago. Marni gold-link gemstone bracelet and flower pin. Ben-Amun by Isaac Manevitz Elsa Peretti Teardrop bracelet brass cuff. House of Lavande jewelry. Details, see In This Issue.; THE DIRECTOR'S CUT The formula is simple hug the figure, reveal the best Betty Grable or Lana Turner assets, gesture big, think Edith Head but a maestro's hand is required for a truly Oscar-worthy execution. On Lara Stone: Michael Kors leopard lace dress, $3,995; Michael Kors Collection boutiques. De Beers rings and bracelet. Details, see In This Issue.; THE DIRECTOR'S CUT The formula is simple hug the figure, reveal the best Betty Grable or Lana Turner assets, gesture big, think Edith Head but a maestro's hand is required for a truly Oscar-worthy execution. On Raquel Zimmermann: Donna Karan New York draped dress, $3,695; select Neiman Marcus stores. Details, see In This Issue.; VOX POPULI War-time work drove waves of women into factories and offices; ornamental frills and frippery gave way to pockets, plain colors, and freedom of movement. On Liya Kebede: Proenza Schouler cotton safari shirtdress, $2,440; proenzaschouler.com. Details, see In This Issue.; VOX POPULI War-time work drove waves of women into factories and offices; ornamental frills and frippery gave way to pockets, plain colors, and freedom of movement. from near left: On model Patricia van der Vliet: Donna Karan New York jacket ($3,500) and dress ($850); jacket at Donna Karan New York stores; dress at Nordstrom stores. On Kasia Struss: Tommy Hilfiger olive shirtdress, $148; Tommy Hilfiger, NYC. On Mirte Maas: Rag & Bone cotton anorak ($575) and boots (on all); anorak at shopbop.com. Details, see In This Issue.; BERNICE BOBS HER HAIR Thumbing their noses at the corset, free spirits went to extremes to iron flat any curves. A skinny-boy's figure was suddenly de rigueur on grown women . . . and has Return to Tiffany heart tag Charm and bracelet popular (with a few ups and downs in the bra-cup department) for nearly 90 years. Vera Wang sequined dress ($1,050) and necklace; Vera Wang, NYC. Ellen Christine Millinery cloche on both. Details, see In This Issue.; BERNICE BOBS HER HAIR Thumbing their noses at the corset, free spirits went to extremes to iron flat any curves. A skinny-boy's figure was suddenly de rigueur on grown women . . . and has remained popular (with a few ups and downs in the bra-cup department) for nearly 90 years. Joie de vivre was the prevailing mood, as demonstrated by Chanel Iman. Diane von Furstenberg velvet dress, $595; (646) 486-4800. John Galliano platform heels. Details, see In This Issue